Tuesday, 26 March 2013

'EVEN A JOURNEY OF 10,000 MILES, STARTS WITH A STEP' - Lao Tzu

After an exhilarating morning on the soccer field, we make our way over to meet with the chairperson of the Child Welfare Committee (CWC). This is a part of the trip I had been particularly excited about, not only because we were privileged to meet with the chairperson but be able to hear the stories first hand of her six years in the coveted position. The stories from a woman no less, who bears so much responsibility for making the decisions which impact the safety and future of so many children.
Today, we not only heard the stories but we sat as witnesses in the committee hearing. No words were needed when we saw a child no more than 13years old (she wasn't convincing in her testimony of being 21 years old) and her tiny baby, wrapped in nothing but cloth, her fragility evident in the manner which a carer carefully cradled her in her arms.
The girl, sobbing is clearly pleading with the chairperson to be able to keep her child but understandably, the chairperson has to make the tough decision to separate them in the meantime, so that the girl may be able to have a chance at a proper education and life. Carolyn and I aren't sure of the girl's story, how a child became a mother to child, but it's a story so common in India. The tragic reality is that most girls bearing children at such a young age aren't from circumstances of choice and not all stories have the opportunity to be heard in a setting such as the committee but by fate this young girl has ended up here today, and we were able to engage silently as the decision was made that she will spend time in rehabilitation and school before being able to reconnect with her child.
Not all cases end with the possibilities of union between mother and child, in fact, we are told that most babies in these situations end up in adoption homes.
Next, we meet a 15 year old girl who enters the room with her visibly upset mother. It doesn't take long for us to realise that this young girl had been sold for marriage and we are shocked to learn that she was forced into a union with a 35 year old deaf and mute man. The girl had run away from him, and the mother was upset that if she isn't returned their family will be threatened and extorted for money.
It's difficult to understand how a 15 year old girl would have the capacity to understand and bear the responsibilities of a marriage let alone be forced into such a situation. The chairperson understandably angry at the mother ends up telling her to leave her courtroom and that if she was to even think about returning the child to the man she would be arrested. The girl stands sobbing, tears streaming down her face, not because of her vulnerability she says but because she "doesn't want mum to be arrested". Carolyn walks up to her and offers her a tissue, and she's taken back by her caring gesture.
The chairperson beckons the girl and as she walks past Carolyn and I, tears still streaming down her face, she manages to smile. A genuine smile. She had felt the unspoken connection with us and as she tried to lock eyes, I had to look away. I didn't want her to see the tears in my eyes as I desperately wanted to smile back at her.
These are only two of many stories we heard today. And of many that are told every other day.
It's hard to believe that still most go untold but this committee and others like it are dedicated to play their part in a myriad of fighters to keep a sense of justice afloat.

Below is a snapshot of the role a CWC plays in a community (from http://www.childlineindia.org.in/Child-Welfare-Committee.htm)

"As per the provisions of the Juvenile Justice (Care and Protection of Children) Act 2000 (amended in 2006) State governments are required to establish a CWC or two in ever district. Each CWC should consist of a chairperson and four members. The chairperson should be a person well versed in child welfare issues and at least one member of the board should be a woman. The CWC has the same powers as a metropolitan magistrate or a judicial magistrate of the first class. A child can be brought before the committee (or a member of the committee if necessary) by a police officer, any public servant, CHILDLINE personnel, any social worker or public spirited citizen, or by the child himself/herself.
The CWC usually sends the child to a children's home while the inquiry into the case is conducted for the protection of the child. The CWC meets and interviews the child to learn his/her background information and also understand the problem the child is facing. The probation officer (P.O) in charge of the case must also submit regular reports of the child. The purpose of the CWC is to determine the best interest of the child and find the child a safe home and environment either with his/her original parents or adoptive parents, foster care or in an institution.
A final order must be given within four months of the admission of the child before the CWC. The CWC also has powers to hold people accountable for the child such as in the case of child labour, the employers are fined or made to give bonds to the children. CWC also has the power to transfer the child to a different CWC closer to the child's home or in the child's state to dispose of the case and reunite the child with his family and community."

The Art of Soccer (Bangalore)

Today we say our goodbyes to Alex and Chandni and travel to Bangalore. Here we meet with Anita, the executive director of Oasis India. Anita is yet another inspiring woman who dedicates her life to standing up for the rights of women and children. Strong, courageous, intelligent, passionate and not afraid to speak her mind. Carolyn, Anita and I talk over dinner and we quickly find comfort in knowing  that we are all united with the same beliefs, morals and understanding that things need to change. Anita shares many plans and ideas and we are truly excited for what's in store in the next couple of days. Bangalore is different to Mumbai. It's just as busy, but has a sense of calm to it, it seems more cosmopolitan and current, in a less saris and more denim kind of way. Bangalore is full of 'vertical slums'. Modern day slums the government built in an effort to sweep the homeless off the streets and contain them in mass volumes in a high rise building. This way, they don't take up more space where you could build a commercial building or luxury apartments. When I say vertical building, imagine a concrete block, most with minimal or no light, no proper bathroom or kitchen facilities and rooms small enough to barely fit one person let alone a family of ten. It's interesting that the Government seems to have the resources to build and modernise slums yet the problem remains the same.
After dinner we return to a quiet Catholic retreat, our home for the night. It's made up of small dorms and adorned with pictures of the pope. As I sit in my room to write this post, I hear the very distinct sounds of a muslim call to prayer  nearby and i'm reminded of the religious diversity of India.
The next morning, we get up early to join Satyaraj, an honourable man who has dedicated his life to taking disadvantaged children off the streets and coaching them soccer, who has kindly invited us to their daily soccer practices. An ex-professional soccer player, Satyaraj now focuses on giving kids hope and direction in life through the art of sport. Practice starts at 7am but when we arrive on the field at 6.30am the kids are already there, full of enthusiasm and energy, unfazed by the early morning hour.
Just as well, as Satyaraj is a man of discipline and is strict on his coaching methods. "It gives them structure and balance", Satyaraj tells us "...they are used to getting up early anyway, as most of them were/are homeless so they get woken up by the rats that occupy the streets". As we watch the boys, some as young as five warm up in their torn canvas shoes, Satyaraj points out one after another and tells us of their stories. These are children who live in makeshift homes covered with a single torn sheet of tarp, assembled in insidious parts of the city streets, often sharing this space with up to ten or more brothers and sisters. Most of them used be or still are beggars, an overwhelmingly obvious issue in Bangalore. We hear of stories of boys being kidnapped and grievously harmed to look more "appealing" as a beggar. Some boys have deep physical scars on their bodies, proof that violence is part of their every lives. Some of these scars have been caused by gang activity. A common story of boys here who end up in gangs and a life of violence and they themselves become the ones to inflict physical and emotional pain on other boys...and the cycle goes on.
The boys on the field today are bonded by common stories of injustice but now all find hope in something they are clearly passionate about. It's amazing to see what happens one one individual is given a sense of direction, sense of security and sense of purpose. These boys have found this and more under Satyaraj's direction - and they are good. I mean really good. Granted, I don't know much about soccer but I know enough to notice a good player when I see one. They are fast, determined, focused, athletic, strong and play as if they are all trying to make Satyaraj and his coaching team proud. The coaching team is made up of boys, now men, who have come through Satyaraj's training program. Some of them have qualified to play in the national team. However, they dedicate most of their time in paying it forward and now training boys who, in so many, they can see their young selves in. David, was homeless, involved in street crime and part of a gang when a chance meeting with Satyaraj changed his life. He is now a key player on the national team and coaches the senior Oasis team.
Anan is another young player. He's 11 years old and one to watch. He has a rare skill in that he can shoot goals and play with both feet, a skill i'm told that is sought after by the elite premiere league soccer teams all around the world. Anan used to sleep on the footpaths each night and Satyaraj and his team noticed that he used to come to training with noticeable wounds on his feet, they soon realised that these wounds were marks left by rats which gnawed on his toes throughout the night. This prompted Satyaraj to quickly find suitable shelter and protective homes for these young boys, and now he and his coaching staff take it upon themselves to live in these shelters with their extended soccer family. The sense of joy is contagious and I didn't even realise the time pass by as I sat and watched pride, freedom,  happiness, sense of safety, community and team spirit all embodied in the act of sportsmanship and art of soccer.







Monday, 25 March 2013

SUMANGALI

Sumangali by definition means 'married woman'. If you haven't heard of the Sumangali scheme, please take a few minutes to read information as follows as it will change the way you think about the shirt on your very back.
The sumangali scheme relates closely to the dowri system in India - which by definition is a payment of cash or gifts from the bride's family to the bridegroom's family upon marriage. The dowry understandably puts great financial pressure on a family and is cited to be one of the biggest reasons for feticide/sex selection resulting in a phenomenally distorted ration of women to men in India...and the degradation and dishonourable attitude to women...and so forth. As a result, the payment of dowry became prohibited with the introduction of The Dowry Prohibition Act in 1961, yet thousands (more than 8000 deaths in 2010) of dowry related deaths are reported each year. Dowry deaths are the deaths of young woman who are murdered of driven to suicide due to continuous harassment and torture by in-laws and husbands in an effort to extort an increased dowry. Its ironic that so many dowry related deaths are officially reported yet, kidnapping, selling of humans, and domestic violence are seldom.
Getting back on track...with the dowry system still very much a part of indian culture, the sumangali scheme was designed to work, in theory and started as a good initiative to encourage women to build skills, and make a good living until they get married. In a nutshell, the scheme was introduced as a way of promising young women a small pay each month with a large lump sump payment at the end of three years. During the three years, the women are promised training and development in skills and education. The idea is, with this lump sum at the end of your employment you will have a sufficient dowry in preparation for marriage. As I mentioned, this works...in theory. Over time, corruption, cohesion, deception and desperation makes for an incredibly unjust situation.
Today, Alex takes us to Tiripur to meet Henry and the team at SAVE. Save is an organisation dedicated to child rights, women's developments, labour resourcing and migration. But their rescue and prevention work for women associated with the sumangali scheme is instrumental given Tiripur is the capital of India's garment industry. To give you an idea, 11% of the world's apparel is made in India, and of that 70% of the trade exports from Tiripur. There are 6,500 garment related facilities here and over 700,000 workers, 450,000 migrants that travel from mainly 7 different states in india. When I say travel, I mean voluntarily looking for work or trafficked. In fact, we're told that most are adolescent runaway children come looking for jobs, and up to 15 children per bus into Tiripur (and when you're in Tiripur you'll notice the abundance of buses) are trafficked. There are two kinds of working systems in Tiripur, one is the hostel based system which workers live within the factory compounds and the other you opt for your own accommodation should you be able to afford it. The latter is not an option for most. The 90% of workers aged between 15-19 years end up in the hostel based system (10% are aged 25+) in which living standards are below substandard. In fact, most supply little and unhygienic food, poor accommodation (up to 30 women sleep in a small room, with no mattresses, windows, air or light), no access to toilets, no holiday (some cases report for every day you take leave be it for being sick or attending a family members funeral you accrue an extra month work with no pay), and most shocking of all, women are allegedly fed hormones to prevent their menstrual cycles so to minimise  disruption to their working day. These aren't facts I read about but first hand accounts of 12 women who so passionately shared their stories with us today. They waited for 3 hours for our arrival at a small office run by a local gentleman who has dedicated his life to saving and campaigning for the rights of these women. 12 women, 1 hour, too many shocking stories which left us completely speechless. We were so welcomed but perhaps it was our foreign demeanour, it was hard to get anyone to talk. However, as Carolyn and I started making conversation with 12 women who were strangers themselves to us, we quickly felt familiar and comfortable for them to expose their experiences - and candid they were. One by one, their voices got louder, they got angrier, they got more passionate - they wanted to be heard. One woman told us she had to work an extra year with no pay because she fell ill, one woman told us she witnessed the death of her friend who had fallen and got her hair caught in a mill, one woman told us of the hormones fed to them but they didn't think much of it until they fell ill...and then made to work extra days and months in lieu without pay...and so the cycle goes on. Deaths are a common occurrence in these factories, but covered up and identities of the deceased tossed away as if they never existed, literally, or so their families are told.
The toughest part for these women are not that they are so mistreated but that at the end of their working term, they get fired prematurely for unknown reasons and don't get a payment at all. If they do, it's minimal, the factory owners citing that they needed to cut their pay for accommodation, food, leave...even more devastating is that the lack of education leads to women continuously being exploited to this scheme even sisters of these very women we had met.
The most touching moment of today was when one of the women held my hand as we were leaving and made me promise we would return to tell their story, and we embraced and held each other for awhile and all I could do was nod.
We can't just tell their story, we need to change their story.
The next time you pick up a piece of clothing, spare a thought for these women and children, not just in India but all around the world because they too have paid a price.

For your reference...
http://www.fairlabor.org/report/understanding-sumangali-scheme-tamil-nadus-textile-garment-industry
http://www.ethicaltrade.org/in-action/programmes/garments-and-textiles-india



SAVE school for rescued children







Saturday, 23 March 2013

AGAPE (LOVE).

One the most humbling parts of our journey has been the privilege of meeting dedicated and passionate people with tender hearts to make a change - however big or small, they never underestimate the power of community and determination to push on, regardless of the unavoidable feelings of doubt which sinks in after continuously facing despair and injustice, more often than not putting their own lives at risk for others. Today we are on the way to meet another inspirational team.
We travel onto Dharmapuri, Tamil Nadu, located toward the south of india. From Guwahati airport, we board a 4 hour flight to Bangalore and here we are greeted by Alex, who runs the AGAPE Foundation. He has travelled 4 hours by car to pick us up from the airport and will now accompany us back the way he travelled where he and his family have generously opened up their home for us to stay for the next few days. Carolyn and I have truly been grateful for the overwhelming hospitality and welcome in India and this was no exception.
It's late, but our minds are never tired, always hungry for more information. Along the way, we have the opportunity to learn much about the local area. We learn that here, we will find India's largest tuberculosis (tb) population where someone dies of the disease nearly every minute. Here we will find the most number of feticide which inherently leads to the most number of child marriages (children younger than ten years old get sold or arranged to get married), here we will find the most number of feticide, and here we will find the reality of the sumangali scheme (more on these to come).  We are greeted at home by Alex's wife, Chandni. It's close to 2am but she had waited up to greet us and ensure a safe arrival. It's evident that Alex and Chandni's hospitality stretches beyond our stay, their doors are always open to neighbours, church family, anyone in need, including patients that Chandni looks after. Chandni is a doctor who runs a clinic as part of the foundation to assist in offering medical care to those who have limited or no access, especially in the care of patients suffering from tb. This is just one part of AGAPE's mission which also includes community development, raising awareness and treatment of infectious diseases, prevention of human trafficking and child abuse, promote livelihoods and entrepreneurship development programs and formation of self help and community based organisations. They also run a school for children who otherwise would be deprived of a basic education, they started with less than ten children, mostly those of neighbours and church members and now have more than 80 enrolled students from areas near and afar. Over the three days we spend with Alex and Chandni, we visit the school (which is also the place of worship for the congregation Alex pastors), the clinics, speak with local contacts who have formed ACT (Active Communities against Trafficking) groups to specifically promote prevention of child marriages, and learn that on average, only 2 cases of kidnapping gets officially reported per year, despite the phenomenal number of children that get taken each day - it's overwhelming to think how hard to you have to fight for what are such basic human rights. Rights we most often take for granted.
We visit Panagrah, a village tucked away from the busy streets from which it borders, literally, folded in  an obscure path which you would not even notice had you just walked obliviously past it. The common factor with the villages we have visited is that they are forgotten pods of society, shunned away from civilisation, because let's face it, it's easier to forget if you can't see right?
Walking through these villages is like walking through an old deserted colony. There are homes built with sticks and stones with plastic roofs, stray dogs and dry tumbleweed blowing through the emptiness. You wouldn't think people occupied these villages if it weren't for the abundance of chickens and occasional curious child peeping through the makeshift windows. Yet again, there is a strange sense of community that holds these villages together. We meet with a family who after being connected with Alex and Chandni (through the medical clinics they run) and hearing of the work they do, decided to form an ACT group within their village. The sense of ownership and accountability of their community is evident and I think, if ACT groups can operate in the most remote and isolated communities in India what excuses do we, living in privilege, have in not caring? This family meets with the team at AGAPE and take it upon themselves to educate their community and be the point of contact to continue to enable growth and development in their village. On our way home, we stop by a UNICEF run NCLP (National Child Labour Protection) school which aims to restore education to children who have been saved from various forms of forced labour. The school is a small concrete block, with limited light and no heating/cooling access, small bathroom, no rugs, carpets or books in sight. Yet, the walls are covered with colourful drawings, and the writing on the wall is literally words of encouragement and hope. Words which will hopefully educate the children to enable self protection against the dangers of trafficking and forced labour. The 20 or so students are very young in age, ranging from kindergarten to primary school age. They greet us with those infectious smiles, the same we've seen on every child we have met at schools here in India. Perhaps they are just happy to be at school. Perhaps they are just happy to be in the presence of other children, perhaps they are happy to be in a safe environment. The joyful energy is transcending and you can't help but feel hope and energy every time you walk into a classroom. The children will usually sing a song or show us what they have been working on and here we find a very special chart - it's an inspiration chart, where each child has listed what they want to be when they grow up. Doctors, teachers, nurses seem to be professions of choice. We ask why they chose these particular professions and they say its because they can then help others. It's simple when you put it that way isn't it? They are ecstatic to take a picture and it's not so evident in the pictures of their smiling faces that they were once in such a vulnerable and abusive situation. It's hometime and they all pick up their matching backpacks (thank you UNICEF) some outweighing their tiny frames and they wave one by one as they leave. When we ask why school finished earlier here than other schools we are told it's because most of these children have to walk for 2 hours to get home. 2 hours to school. 2 hours back. It's hard to imagine that such tiny feet can carry the weight for that long every single day. But it seems it makes them stronger. And they wouldn't have it any other way. They sure don't complain about homework either, in fact, I told that they are hungry for it.
Over the course of the weekend we also visit another village which the government ironically built and named Kothadimy which means - slave. 25 homes and families rescued from bonded labour at a coal mine live in this colony. We met with a woman who had worked in the coal mine for 40 years, and had started there when she was sold off to pay off her family's alleged debt. Her son now works at the same coal mine, and he voluntarily took her place. Despite her knowledge of the abuse and mistreatment there she tells me with a distinct quiver in her voice, that she is powerless to bring her own son home, for if she speaks up 'great danger will come to him'. Threat and bribery are common practice here and a way of life which continues to distort, fail and disillusion the innocent.
Stories like these break my spirit and hope but i'm quickly reminded that my role isn't to fix all of this but to acknowledge, learn and walk in humilty with those who have kindly shared their stories of survival and strength. And through recognising the work of all the organisations and people who continue to be a vessel of communication for those who need to be heard a constant balance of encouragement and hope weighs against despair and heartbreak.
Carolyn and I are in town at the right time as AGAPE invite us to join with them on a monthly Stop TB day rally in a local village. We don our shirts and visors and join in a conga line of children and AGAPE team members who proceed to walk through this particular village, handmade signs and flyers in tow. Children are familiar with the proceedings and are excited to participate in the rally. They provide the voice for the rally, their unbroken voices shouting out "I WILL STOP TB IN MY LIFETIME" echoes through the village. Curious people peep through their windows and step out and the children and AGAPE team don't waste a single opportunity to raise much needed awareness in the area. The flyers are decorated with images and diagrams outlining the symptoms of TB and how easily it can be treated. Graphic information on what could happen if untreated seems enough to prompt anyone to seek (free) medical assistance. The work AGAPE is doing in these villages seems to be working as they have treated hundreds of patients since opening their clinics in these villages. Alex and Chandni are passionate to further develop education and treatment as tuberculosis continues to be a major public health problem in India. India accounts for one-fifth of the global TB incident cases. Each year nearly 2 million people in India develop TB or which almost half are infectious cases. It's estimated that 350,000 people die of TB each year, that's nearly a thousand people a day die of a disease that in this day and age is so easily cured. Unfortunately stigma and lack of education continues to prevent TB from being eradicated but the voices of one community at a time seems to be the key for now. We drive home after a long day and are treated to a warm hearty dinner with Alex, Chandni, Lydia and Elango who are the extended family at AGAPE. After many conversations around the table, Chandni and I find each other in a space where we can converse further. Chandni, like myself, seems to process events and experiences through verbalisation so we gladly continue to talk about her work, her faith, family and relationships. From the minute I met Chandni, I knew she was the kind of woman who  if she puts her mind to something she could do anything. She's a doctor, mother, wife, friend, councillor, drummer, keyboard player and singer in the praise team and most of all a woman of strength. So, Chandni, if you're reading this, I'd like to take this opportunity to thank you once again for your words, encouragement, giving me hope through your actions and most of all cementing my belief in the strength and grace of women - traits which you truly personify.



UNICEF National Child Labour Protection School




Inspiration Board at NCLP School

Panagrah Village

STOP TB Rally







For your reference...
http://www.agapefoundation.asia






Friday, 22 March 2013

Rhinoceros Dreaming

3.45am. I wake up to the sound of roaring thunder, violent rays of lightning flashing through my room. The sound of heavy rain is welcomed as it cools the dry Assam land. I peel myself off my bed and wait for my eyes to adjust to the dim shades of lamps peeping through the curtains. It may be early but I'm excited, we're off to see the rhinos at the world famous Kaziranga National Park. I'm told, if we're lucky, the tigers, water buffalos, wild birds and even hyenas may make an appearance, it's likely too, with all the wet weather. All this on elephant back! A small treat to provide a break from the daily learnings and demanding travel schedule. We wait for a driver to come pick us up...we wait for 45minutes and finally we are greeted by the sound of an engine pulling up in the driveway.
The driver is determined to make up for lost time and breaks all (if any) road rules to get us there. 1.5 hours later we arrive to see a group of people and their elephant companions ride off into the sunrise...evidently, elephants, rhinos and tigers don't wait. We see a rhino in the distance, claiming its territory over the fast land - I can see why the wildlife tours here are so popular and famous. Ah well, next time. Nearby, an elephant and her baby must have sensed our disappointment as they gently walked towards us, just close enough for me to notice a gentle smile on the calf. The early morning drive was worth it. We drive back, crawl back into bed to get some shut eye before a long journey ahead to Dharmapuri.
Oh, I should also mention that during our stay here in Tezpur and the team at Baptist Christian Hospital (a unit of Emmanuel Hospital Association), we met with wonderful volunteers who work tirelessly with Dr Pratibha on the grounds in villages, schools and also petitioning signatures for Stop The Traffik!
We also had the privilege of meeting Jeremiah, who works closely with Dr Pratibha on the grounds in the villages we visited. He works amongst the people and lives to build safe communities, he also promised us that he will take us to Bhutan on a small pony next time! It's now in writing Jeremiah!
We also came across a very sick goat, which, all humour aside, was the only source of livelihood for two women who were working to build a life after being rescued by their mother from domestic labour. It had been attacked by a local dog and god works in mysterious ways as we happened to be visiting with a doctor on board, who used Carolyn's betadine cream and antibiotic to treat the wounds - I'm telling you, our aussie medication came in handy more than once, not for us but for the locals, humans and animals alike!
In all, it's been an amazing learning journey here in Assam, and we leave with humble hearts to see what is in store for us on the south side of india.





Thursday, 21 March 2013

Find a cause and the means will follow

We travel onto Udalguri, one of the 27 districts in Assam, but face an obstacle along the way. We are stopped by military guards who are keeping observation in the area in case of conflict during a bandh which has been called for 48hours. Bandh, a Hindi word for "closed" is a form of protest used by political activists. A strike you might call it. We are told that Bandhs are common practice in Assam, usually called by underground activists for various reasons. It happens so much so that an average student in Assam takes an extra two years to graduate because of limited access to school during bandhs where everything in the region is forced to shut down. Risks of riots are extremely high during these times so military escorts are provided for certain organizations including EHA when traveling through the districts. we wait for our escort vehicle to come and we are finally back on the road, full military unit truck powering on ahead. Along the way we see a truck that has been torched and burnt to its frames, a sign of violence and anger amongst the people of Assam. While driving through udalguri, we learn that a local tribe, the boros heavily occupy the area, more than 50 percent in fact and they are fighting to gain control of the plains they occupy. There are frequent violent conflicts which occurs between the boros and authorities and the tribe often participate in rituals such as beheading of those suspected of witchcraft, kidnappings and blowing up public infrastructure including railway lines. They are regarded highly dangerous when it comes to trafficking and consider the more number of slaves they have as a sign of prosperity and wealth.
We arrive safely at a tea garden in udalguri and we are met by 7 local pastors who have gathered at quaint local church to tell us their stories on the fight against trafficking. We are also joined by leaders and members of the local student union, a powerful body which acts somewhat as the authority figure in these districts. Not just in Assam but in many parts of India, the voice of the youth is becoming increasingly influential and they play am integral part in rescuing and recognizing trafficking agents. In some cases, they become judge, jury and executioner when the police don't act against trafficking, a common problem in a country where bribes are common practice. The secretary of the tea garden has also joined us, but is very cautious of the information he shares. When we ask if they use children in their gardens he quickly responds to say that when they do they make sure fair wage and good working conditions are provided, a scripted answer found in manuals for child laborers I'm sure.
We spend a good hour in discussion with the pastors and the like and we are encouraged by their pro activeness in forming an ACT group (active communities against trafficking) and find hope in their stories of a few rescue missions, education for children and efforts to remove the stigma within their communities of being a trafficking victim. Another unfortunate side to trafficking, especially for women is that they often are rejected from their own communities and aren't allowed to marry or even get jobs once they are recognized as being a victim (I prefer survivor) of trafficking...and so they look for acceptance in the wrong places and they vulnerability leads to the cycle to begin again.
The pastors are keen on keeping in touch and are excited about our return in August.
We are offered a gift by the secretary - bags of tea and we accept out of respect. Although instincts tell us that behind the carefully guarded walls of the gardens, blood, sweat and tears are poured into the picking of each tea leaf.
We continue our journey into Bormukuli, a small village of 75 families, situated just 5km from the Bhutan border. We arrive to a warm welcome with a song sung by the community, our hands washed and then presented individually with a local scarf as a sign of welcome and love. I look up as a woman draped in a beautiful sari washes my hands and presents me with a scarf, only to catch a glimpse of the Bhutanese mountains in the near distance. It's quite surreal and if a week ago someone told me I would be standing where I was I wouldn't have believed them.
It is in this community we find most hope and encouragement in our fight against trafficking. Here, trafficking was a common occurrence only 10-15 years ago, but since then through education, prevention, awareness and community support they formed a local ACT group, the most remote ACT group we could come across and here they are today with zero accounts of trafficking reported last year. This area is particularly vulnerable to trafficking with its proximity to the Bhutan border yet they have managed to put in practices and regulations to enable a safe environment for their women and children. This small act group basically provides education to their women and children not only of the dangers of trafficking but also the economics of trafficking. They teach their community that although trafficking agents may offer more money in other cities the cost of living outweighs any savings and calculations show that they can earn ore money by living in the village. They have set up a local economy in the form of crops and vegetable growing - a key component of preventing trafficking. To ensure that there is safe work in the community to eradicate vulnerability and instead provide sustainability. Otherwise, it becomes so easy to fall into the traps of trafficking, over and over again. This ACT group also implements a strict interview, counseling, and education program if someone wishes to leave the community to work so they make an informed decision and furthermore keeps a registry who end up leaving and take on the responsibility of following up to ensure they are working under good conditions. As a result of this collaborative effort and solid structure and support network, only two men have left the community to work in other areas and we are pleased to hear that they are working under good conditions. This community is s testament to the positive outcomes when a community bands together, as they say it takes a community to raise a child.
We spend the afternoon being spoilt with food, archery and great conversations. We are disappointed to leave but excited to return to hopefully hear many more stories.
On the way home, Dr Singh, Dr David (another doctor who had joined us on our travels today), Vasu, Carolyn and I share many laughs and share stories on our individual lives and experiences. That's the silver lining to a 4 hour drive back home. The heavens opened up and the much needed rain begins to our down accompanied by the roar of thunder. A nice cool breeze whips through the car and the smell of rain is much welcomed. The skies are pink as the sun sets and we finish our eventful day with a special dinner with the hospital family. The rain continues to pour, a prelude to monsoon season.

For your reference...
http://www.stopthetraffik.org/how-to-start-one
http://www.krepublishers.com/02-Journals/T%20&%20T/T%20&%20T-04-0-000-000-2006-Web/T%20&%20T-04-1-001-076-2006-Abst-PDF/T%20&%20T-04-1-057-062-2006-088-Narzary-P-K/T%20&%20T-04-1-057-062-2006-088-Narzary-P-K-Text.pdf












Tea gardens

Assam is a state in India that borders 2 countries,Bhutan and Bangladesh, and six other states.
Borders means susceptibility to illegal immigration, and so a heavy military presence is evident wherever we travel in Assam.
Assam is famous for its tea, and there are 5 types of tea (assam, darjeeling, nilgiri, earl grey and mystery tea) grown on thousands of gardens with more than 70,000 laborers working on them.
If you've ever had a cup of tea, it's most likely that it has come from a tea garden in Assam.
On the surface, tea gardens seem like tranquil places of serenity and peace. I mean, all the greenery of the tea leaves, trees gently swaying in the wind, leaf pickers calmly going about their business, who would ever think otherwise? In fact, I'm told that tourists and visitors to Assam are encouraged to visit a tea garden where they can sip on a nice cup of tea, enjoy the views and learn about the seemingly innocent process of making tea. Beneath the surface however, a dark truth lies of cohesion, bonded labour and unbelievable sub standards of living. We learn that on a large garden approximately 15,000 - 20,000 laborers who are born into generations of slavery on these lands work just to keep the house they are given in the family. By house, I mean a bamboo shack covered with mud. They live in colonies on the property of the gardens, placed close enough to work efficiently but far enough so no unsuspecting eye can see the truth. Trafficking doesn't happen so much into the tea gardens but out of them is a common occurrence, with 40% of these gardens trafficking hundreds of children out a year.
Children don't go to school, and malnutrition is so rampant, it's evident when we take a walk around the gardens and we come across a group of the residents, the children are half naked, unwashed and their small stomachs are extremely bloated - a sure sign of malnutrition and worms.
We then meet a small boy, who couldn't have been older than 8 who had a wrap securely tied around him. Upon closer inspection I can see that it's a baby, who looks only a few weeks old, extremely small, skinny and dehydrated sleeping in his brothers arms. I ask the boy where his mother is and he tells me she's at work so he must care for his brother. My heart sank and I had to turn away with a tear in my eye. Its an image I will remember for the rest of my life.

For your reference...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assam
http://nehu-economics.info/PhD-Synopsis/g-sarma-synopsis.pdf
http://tehelka.com/mayhem-in-the-tea-garden/